Commute or Electrocute

A blogger's article on fascinating Mumbai train travel prompted me to write this post.

(1996-1998)

Yes, the Mumbai travel is a great experience, though not a very pleasant one. It is a great leveller. The sights and sounds assault you and make you breathless. You are literally breathless at the end of your daily commute - that's a different story.

I remember a few things vividly about my two years of Mumbai life and daily commute in the Harbour and the Western lines.

While the train left Vasai Road, it will be amusing to watch a few groups in action. One group will start playing cards at 7 am...with the meticulousness and solemnity of morning prayers. Another group will start singing bhajans with their God's photo and some percussion instruments.

Within a few seconds I will be drenched in sweat, the freshness of a bath (in water scare Vasai) vanishing before the train reaches Dahisar.

Enter a guy nicknamed 'Sumo'...who with a mighty shove will send a few passengers fighting for their balance. But the crowd support will ensure one does not tumble. 'Sumo' will be greeted by our Card group and he will nonchalantly make his way into the compartment as if the bunch of people were non-existent. A push this side, a shove and and elbow to the other and Sumo is safely home with the players.

Amidst all this enters a blind beggar who sings in a melancholic voice...in perfect tune and rhythm 'Tum Tho Tehre Pardesi'.

The train arrives at Andheri and I am gasping for some fresh Oxygen. My briefcase is held at an awkward angle, like Sehwag's bat when he jump-cuts Brett Lee on the off-side.

My neck and face are totally in another direction...and I position myself towards the exit.

The crowd does the rest. I hurtle outside...my briefcase following with a swoosh and my glasses are tilted at an odd angle. I am happy to be alive and running...to queue up for the auto rickshaw.

A similar encore in the evening and I am pleased to be with my family, In One Whole Piece.

All this in a First Class Compartment. Pity the ones that travel in the Second class.

What would haunts me for many days was the beggar's melody.

NOW

Contrast this to Wellington. See the train above (it's a Choppu or Toy train compared to our Indian giants). In my last few years of living here...on very few occasions has my 'Private Space' been invaded in the Welly trains. In peak times the trains will have a few more compartments. Otherwise, they are real 'Choppus'.

Even in the peak times, one can get a seat on most of the days. No pushing, no shoving, no Sumos...no Cards...bhajans or beggars.

In twenty minutes time I arrive at my destination. No dramas no delays.

Do I miss the drama and the colours?

I don't know.

But I have this strong feeling that it was Mumbai which might have given me the ultimate push to a much quieter and less populous city at the bottom of the world.

25/7/07

In today's NZ Herlad there was a story on Mumbai trains. The stats quoted were shocking. Every year 4,000 people die due to falling from the trains, electrocuted while sitting on top of the trains etc. In 2007 a new record is in the making - already 1,200 have died in the first 4 months.